Hedeby klappenrock

This model is based on pictorial sources and several textile fragments found in Hedeby dated to the late 10th to 11th centuries.

An almost complete part from the of a woolen jacket’s front made of fine even-sided twill was found in Hedeby. Its surviving height is about 69 cm, and its width is about 41 cm. This part was cut from a single cut of fabric, the edge of which is still present at one point. The edge is narrowly folded over and has a series of tight, small twisted stitches which apparently originate from a connecting seam on the side of the garment. In the seam under the flap some down-feathers were found that may have been part of a filling.

The outer edges of the fabric indicate, for example, the outline of the original part, although in some places they are badly damaged. The edge of the fabric runs obliquely in the direction in which a neck opening must have been located.

The current opening ends in a straight line parallel to the weft threads. From the top, a fairly straight cut edge runs down at a right angle. This edge, which measures almost 70 cm, represents one of the two damaged yet original edges at the opening of the jacket. The opening edge ends downwards in an acute angle. The lower edge of the fabric runs obliquely upwards and ends in a rounded corner.

The hem and other seams are missing. The rounded corner does not, as one might expect, connect to the seam on the side, but merges into a straight cut edge running parallel with this seam. This edge belongs to a strongly torn, slit-like opening with a depth of at least 20 cm. This slit separates the fabric into two different sections, which were probably originally connected to each other by a seam at the slot.

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Similar garments are depicted on the helmet plates of the Vendel Age (pic. 1) and in drawings from the museum in Hedeby (pic. 2).

Apart from the outer edges and the holes, the fabric material of the Hedeby jacket shows only relatively small signs of wear. The large abrasion marks are probably secondary, because the surrounding surfaces are not as thin as one would expect from a heavily worn fabric.

It is noticeable that almost all seams and hems are missing. This fact, as well as the uneven state of preservation, indicates that the jacket was torn at the seams after being scrapped, with fold-over edges and stitches remaining only exceptionally and in a damaged condition. 

The opening edge and the lower, oblique cut edge have no traces of seams at all and are also quite badly damaged. It is therefore likely that these edges were once decorated with trimmings, which were cut off or torn off when the jacket was torn apart. Therefore, the holes in the opening edge are likely to have arisen not only due to removing buttons, but also after tearing the trimming and lining fabric off.

The trimming parts as well as buttons often belonged to the expensive parts of the costume and could be reused. Such an assumption demonstrates that the sewing pattern must originally have had different proportions than today. Depending on the width of the trimming parts and the connecting seams, a larger total length and width can be expected.

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This outfit also includes Torsberg pants, short linen tunic, woolen hat and Nalbinding socks that you can't see, but they are definitely there.

All of these items and more are available for order on our website in the "Clothes for order" section.